中山道<第3日>板橋~蕨2007年01月13日

志村一里塚にて 画像
板橋宿を出て間もなく現れる「志村一里塚」。
日本橋以来、初めての現存する一里塚ということだが、歩行者に迂回を余儀なくさせるそのデカさに感心するやら呆れるやら。

戸田渡船場跡 画像 戸田橋を渡って埼玉県戸田市に入ってすぐ右手、荒川の土手に「戸田渡船場跡碑」が建っているのが見える。
しかし戸田橋を渡った地点からその碑へ直接向かう道はどう見ても自動車専用で、歩行者は何倍もの距離を回り道しなければならない。
途中、せめてここに階段でもつけてくれれば何10メートルも短縮できるのにという地点にも当然何もない。
せっかく立派な碑と説明板を立ててもそこを訪れる人への配慮がこうまで欠けているのはもったいない。

戸田市内を歩いていると中山道関連の説明板はよく目につく。
しかし実際に戸田市が中山道にしたことといえばズタズタに切り刻んだことくらいにしか見えない。
それくらい旧道は消失している。
ほんの短い路地にわずかに残る旧道から街道風情を無理やり感じ取らなければならないとは情けない話だ。

蕨市立歴史民俗資料館分館前にて 画像 戸田に較べれば蕨は全然頑張ってる。
蕨宿に入ると道幅、道筋ともに往時の雰囲気を残している。
古い日本家屋も何軒かある。
その中のひとつ、明治時代に織物の買継商を営んでいた家が現在蕨市立歴史民俗資料館の分館として公開されているので門をくぐってみた。
残念ながら補修工事中で建物には緑のネットがかけられていたが、縁側に囲まれた座敷が少しだけ見えた時えもいわれぬ感覚を覚えた。
視覚的な快感と懐かしさとが入り混じったような感覚だ。
似たような日本家屋は今までにも何度か見たはずなのに、なぜ今日に限って感じたのか。
少しだけ見えるといういわゆる”チラリズム”のせいだろうか。

この後本陣跡のところで中山道をそれ、ほとんど何もない蕨城址に寄って蕨駅に向かった。

<第2日>太田~鵜沼<第4日>新町~倉賀野~高崎

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