中山道<第4日>新町~倉賀野~高崎2007年02月10日

高崎伊勢崎サイクリングロードにて
神流川古戦場跡 画像 新町駅を降りたち、国道21号線を埼玉方面へ向かうと神流川の手前に「神流川古戦場跡」の碑。
天正10年(1582)、本能寺の変直後に織田信長の家臣滝川一益が北条氏直に大敗を喫した合戦だ。
かつて阿鼻叫喚の地獄絵図の舞台となったこの地も今はただ枯れ草茫漠たる河川敷に過ぎない。

今日はここから倉賀野を経て高崎まで歩いて1泊する予定。
さっき歩いた国道を今度は新町駅方面に向かい、常夜灯のところで旧道に分岐する。

小林本陣跡 画像 新町宿に往時を偲ばせる遺構はほとんどなく、小林本陣などは「小林本陣跡」という1本の棒切れに成り果ててしまっている。

関越自動車道をくぐったあたりで旧道は消失しているらしいので、烏川の土手に上がって「高崎伊勢崎サイクリングロード」を歩く。
いきなり視界が大きく開けて気持ちいい。
ただし2月だというのに随分あったかい。
というか、暑い。
僕も女房も途中でジャンバーを脱いでシャツ姿になってしまった。

倉賀野宿本陣跡 画像 烏川にかかる柳瀬橋を渡り、日光例幣使街道との追分を過ぎると倉賀野宿に入る。
本陣跡の碑を探していると床屋のおじさんがわざわざ店から出て来て倉賀野宿を案内したパンフレットを渡してくれた。
そういえば以前京都で伊東甲子太郎の暗殺現場を探していた時も床屋のおじさんが店から出て来て色々と説明してくれたものだ。
床屋さんは気さくで親切な人が多いのだろうか。

さてその本陣跡、2001年刊のガイドブックでは「スーパー丸幸の駐車場」となっていたが、そのスーパーは「ベイシアマート」に変わっていた。
移り変わりの激しい世だ。

高崎市役所 画像 倉賀野宿を出ると単調な幹線道路が高崎まで続く。
途中中山道を左にそれて櫓と門だけが残っているという高崎城に向かったが見つけられず、道を尋ねようと市役所に行ってその建物の余りにも立派なのに仰天する。
見たところ市内のどの建物よりも高そうだ。
市役所がこんなにふんぞり返ってどうするんだ。

公園の隅に控えめに建っていた高崎城の本丸乾櫓と東門を見学してから中山道に戻り、高崎宿の中山道沿いのビジネスホテルに1泊した。

<第3日>板橋~蕨<第5日>高崎~板鼻~安中~(磯部)

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