中山道<第6日>赤坂~垂井~関が原2007年02月23日

関が原古戦場にて
前夜東京を出発した夜行列車「ムーンライトながら」がまだ夜の明けきらない終点大垣駅に到着した。
今日は「関が原の合戦」の過程をたどりながら中山道を赤坂から関が原まで歩こうという趣向。
まずは決戦前夜に石田光成が入った大垣城へ。
あいにくの土砂降り、しかも昨夜車中でほとんど眠れなかったのになぜか首を寝違えて横を向くのが苦痛だ。

大垣城 画像 朝の7時では城内に入れるはずもなく、シャッターの下りた昭和34年再建のお城の周りをウロついてから大垣駅に戻り、電車で美濃赤坂駅へ。
そこから今度は決戦前夜に徳川家康が陣を敷いた勝山(岡山)へ。
しかしこの小さな山の中の史跡を探すのに時間をかけ過ぎたのが後々響くことになる。

所郁太郎の銅像 画像 勝山から赤坂宿に入るとすぐにそこが本陣跡で、所郁太郎という幕末の志士の銅像が建っている。
司馬遼太郎の小説「美濃浪人」によれば、幕末の風雲にひとかどの事を成さんという志を抱きながら結局は井上馨を2度治療しただけで早世した不運の人だ。
その不得要領に終わった生涯を独特のユーモアまじりに語った小説のお陰でこの銅像も建ったのだろう。

赤坂宿 画像 赤坂宿は蛇行する街道沿いに旧家が立ち並ぶ雰囲気のある町だ。
落ち着いた町並みには雨が似合っていた。

将軍専用の宿舎、御茶屋屋敷跡を見学して赤坂宿を出る。
雨の中を垂井に向かう。
ポケットの地図は勿論、リュックの中のガイドブックまでずぶ濡れだ。
空を見上げ、雨雲の中にほんのわずかな透き間を見つけては、そこに希望を託す。
すると相川橋を渡って垂井宿に入る頃、雲の切れ間が広がり小降りになってきた。

垂井宿 画像 垂井宿は旧い日本家屋が現役で普通に旅館や酒屋を営んでいるのが印象的なこじんまりとした宿場だ。
そのため有難味はそれほどないが、生活感が感じられる。
雨はほぼ上がったので傘を閉じて歩いた。

垂井宿を出てすぐの「垂井の一里塚」で休憩。
この辺りから「誰々の陣跡」という看板が目に付くようになる。
関が原町に入りしばらくだらだらとした上り坂を歩いて平原に出る。
するとそこにわが土佐藩祖「山内一豊陣跡」が。
僕の知識ではもっと後方に布陣していたはずなのだが、なぜかここでは家康が最初に布陣した桃配山のすぐ脇になっている。
大河ドラマで取り上げられた人は前に寄せてもらえるのだろうか?

桃配山にて 画像 その桃配山の家康の陣跡に立ち寄ってから関が原宿に入る。
といってもどこからが宿場なのか判然としない。
とりあえず立派な門だけが残る脇本陣跡で写真を撮り、そこから関が原町役場へ向かった。
働いている職員さんが気の毒になるほどオンボロな町役場の観光課で松尾山への道を教えてもらった。
そこは小早川秀秋が布陣したところでもあるのだが、何よりも古戦場が一望できるらしい。
それで今日の行程の最後に据えたのだが、歩いてみるとこの山は結構遠い。
登り口に差し掛かったところで午後4時を回っている。
とりあえず行ける所までと登ってみたが、2月の陽はどんどん傾いてゆく。
やむなく登頂は断念して引き返し、彦根のホテルに向かった。

<第5日>高崎~板鼻~安中~(磯部) <第7日>鳥居本~高宮~(愛知川駅)

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