中山道<第13日>本庄~新町2007年06月17日

神流川橋東詰にて
今日は本庄から新町まで。
これでひとつの区切りがつく。
2月に1泊して新町から安中の先まで歩いてるので、今日それがつながるわけだ。

本庄城址 画像 本庄駅からまずは本庄城址へ向かう。
深谷城もそうだったが、本庄城も跡地のほとんどが市役所となっている模様。
その市役所の隣の城山稲荷神社が本庄城址ということになっていて説明板などが立っている。
ここの樹齢400年の欅は圧巻。

本庄宿 画像 本庄宿に入る。
文久3年(1863)2月10日、京に向かう幕府募集の浪士隊一行234名はここ本庄宿に宿泊した。
ところが宿の割り振り係の近藤勇、あろうことか一行中最大の問題児芹沢鴨の宿の手配を忘れてしまう。
怒った芹沢、本庄宿のど真ん中で大かがり火を焚いたからたまらない。
近藤が平身低頭謝罪してやっとことはおさまったという。
後に新選組の前身壬生浪士隊で内部抗争を繰り広げる両者の因縁を生んだ事件だ。
ほんじょうかるた 画像 大河ドラマ「新選組!」でも印象的な場面だった。
このドラマがきっかけでにわか歴史ファンになったミーハーな僕としては、その大かがり火の場所がどこだったのかが気になるところ。
ところが現在の本庄宿にそれを示すような物は何もない。
宿の所々にある説明板や「ほんじょうかるた」なる石碑などに本庄宿の歴史について書かれてはいるのに芹沢鴨の事件については沈黙を決め込んでいるようだ。
きっと本庄の人々はあんな無法者の乱暴狼藉など忘れてしまいたいのに違いない。

陽雲寺 画像 国道17号線沿いのレストランで昼食をとり、旧道に戻ってさらに進むとやがて左側に陽雲寺。
現在放送中の大河ドラマ「風林火山」で池脇千鶴演じる武田信玄正室三条夫人の墓があるというので寄ってみる。

武田家遺臣招魂碑 画像 この陽雲寺、武田信玄夫人の墓があり、その隣にはその三条夫人と縁があるという明治新政府の太政大臣三条実美の揮毫による「武田家遺臣招魂碑」なるものまで建っている。
信玄の死後、陽雲院と称した三条夫人が元和4年(1618)に晩年を過ごしたこの地で亡くなると、その菩提を弔うために当時崇栄寺と称していたこの寺を陽雲寺と改めたというのが寺側の説明である。
しかし通説では三条夫人の死は信玄に3年ほど先立つ元亀元年(1570)で、墓所は甲府の円光院ということになっている。
これはどういうことだ?
そう思い始めると「武田家遺臣招魂碑」が明治12年製にしては妙に新し過ぎるのも気になってくる。

神流川 画像 疑惑くすぶる陽雲寺を後にすると間もなく右手に一里塚跡、そのすぐ先で国道17号線に合流するといよいよ神流川。
この川を神流川橋で渡れば群馬県、ついに埼玉ともおサラバだ。
振り返れば戸田橋で荒川を渡ってから半年が過ぎ、その間向島と埼玉を7往復もしている。
現在の中山道中で最もつまらないと思われる埼玉だったが、夫婦で歩けばそれなりに楽しめるものだ。
そんな感慨を抱きながら橋を渡ると本日のゴール「神流川古戦場跡碑」に到着。
これでやっと日本橋から安中までがつながった!

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