中山道<第16日>軽井沢~沓掛~追分~(御代田駅)2007年07月08日

追分に向かう中山道
軽井沢の中山道 画像 初めて泊まったペンションなる宿泊施設を朝9時半に出る。
曇り空だが空気がひんやりして心地いい。
なるほどこれが高原の朝というものか。
良さそうな雰囲気のカフェが建ち並ぶ新軽井沢銀座通りを今日の出発地点に向かって北上する。
メインストリートを1本それた旧中山道をまずは沓掛に向かって歩き始めた。

離山 画像 植物について無知なので名前はわからないが、幹が白っぽく背の高い針葉樹と広葉樹に両側を囲まれた道を行く。
別荘やリゾートマンションが点在する。
右側に現れたこんもりした山は離山。
和宮降嫁の際はその名を嫌って「子持山」と呼ばれたそうだが、和宮は子を授からぬうちに夫の14代将軍家茂と死別することになる。
公武合体派の思惑のため降嫁を強要された皇女和宮。
しかし最も熱心にこの降嫁を推し進めた岩倉具視はいつの間にか倒幕派に転身、彼女の兄の孝明天皇毒殺の疑惑さえくすぶる。
歴史に翻弄された人生という他ない。

前沢橋 画像 さて軽井沢資料館できのう歩いた碓氷峠の立体模型などを見た後、中山道はしなの鉄道の踏切を渡り細くくねくねした旧道となる。
沓掛宿の手前、湯川に架かる前沢橋に着く。
ガイドブックではこの橋を渡らずに土手から川原に降りて草むらの中の道跡を行くルートが紹介されていたが、この橋は昨年架け替えられたらしく、それに伴う護岸工事のため川原には降りられそうもない。
道跡もなくなったのではないか。
幾世紀にも渡って踏み固められてかろうじて残った道跡などパワーショベルのひと掻きで跡形もなく消えてしまう。
是非もなく前沢橋を渡り国道18号線に合流した。

沓掛宿 画像 沓掛宿とは現在の中軽井沢である。
インターネットで軽井沢の宿泊施設を探すとここ中軽井沢にも沢山あったのでそれなりの観光地なのかなと思っていたら、ただの地方のパッとしない駅前通りでしかない。
ちょっと拍子抜けだ。
戦後の大火で宿場が全焼したとかで、かつての名残は何もない。
かろうじて「脇本陣蔦屋跡」の碑を信用金庫の駐車場の片隅に見るのみだ。

古宿のあたり 画像 沓掛を出ると国道と別れ旧道を行く。
蛇行しながらアップダウンを繰り返す。
曇ってはいても上州よりはなぜか明るい感じがする。
それが高原ということなのだろうか。

借宿立場茶屋跡 画像 一瞬国道と合流してまた左に分岐する。
しばらく行くと左にそれる道に「女街道入口」の説明板。
それによれば関所を避ける旅人(多くは女)がここから裏街道を通ったということらしい。
その反対側の倒壊しかかった廃屋が借宿立場茶屋跡で、その前には来る参議院選挙のポスター掲示板が遠慮なく立っている。
さてこの選挙、投票率はどのくらいになるのだろう。
僕に言わせれば選挙で投票しない人たちは”豪傑”だ。
世の中がこんなに生き辛くなっているというのに、その世の中を作った連中に白紙委任状を差し出すなんて桁外れの度量の持ち主でなければ無理だろう。
それに較べて毎度投票所に足を運ぶ己の小心さを恥じ入るばかりだ。

またまた国道と合流すると左手に釜飯のおぎのやがこんなところにも店を出している。
横川で食べ損ねた借りを返すべく昼食をここでとったが、正直そんなにおいしいものではなかった。
ま、こういうものは話の種になればそれでいいのか。

追分宿 画像 おぎのやを出てすぐに国道の両側に「追分の一里塚」を見、その国道を今度は右にそれて追分宿に入る。
街道沿いの各所にこの地を起源とする「追分節」関連の祭りの到来を告げる提灯が吊り提げられ、古い建物を改築した商店は観光客で賑わっている。
ここは小じんまりとした中にも活気が感じられる。

分去れ 画像 追分宿を出るとすぐに国道と合流し、北国街道との分岐点「分去れ(わかされ)」に行き当たる。
右の細い道が善光寺に向かう北国街道で、左の国道が中山道というわけだ。
明治初期の古写真ではこの辺り一面見渡す限り草木も生えぬ荒れ地といった感だったが、現在では道の両側を樹木が覆い尽くしている。

ミニ中山道 画像 分去れを過ぎるとすぐにまた左の旧道に入る。
すると街道右に「ミニ中山道」なるものが。
児童遊園ほどの敷地に小さな橋を架けたり、土盛りをして山を作ったりして中山道69次を再現している。
女房と「ああ、こんなのあったあった」とか話しながら歩いた。
中山道歩きをやっている人には本当に楽しいいたずらだ。
見るとここは「中山道69次資料館」の庭だ。
そろそろ帰りの電車の時間が気になっていたが入ってみることにした。

入場料500円を払うと館長さんが来て説明を始めた。
正直ここで「徳川家康は五街道を整備しました」などというビギナー向けの説明をされてはつまらないな、こっちは碓氷峠を越えて来たんだなんて心配をしていたらとんでもない、中山道69次を描いた浮世絵の作者やその場所の考証、東京の湯島で自ら中山道の名残りを発見したいきさつからその証明方法など内容は高度で、しかもそれをわかり易く説明してくれる。
この説明上手といい、指示棒で壁の資料を指した時にごく自然に最適な角度をつけて立っていることなどからこの館長さんは教壇に立っていた方とお見受けした。
2階に上がると奥さんがお茶菓子を持って来てくれた。
もっとゆっくり見学して館長さんに色々質問もしてみたかったのだが電車の時間が迫って来たので館長さんの著書「新版 中山道69次を歩く ー究極の歩き方120」を購入し、出発することにした。
奥さんには玄関前でカメラのシャッターまで押していただいた。

館長さん個人の中山道に対する愛情と情熱の結晶とでもいうべき資料館だった。
高度かつわかり易い説明、心のこもったもてなし。
中山道関連の資料館のたぐい数あれど、ここが最高だと断言できる。
買った本の「著者紹介」を見ると、やはり県立高校の地理の元教諭だった。
今度会ったらごく自然に「先生」と呼べそうだ。

大久保一里塚 画像 ここからは時間との競争だった。
ガイドブックでは舗装道路からそれて農道に入り藪をかきわけて個人宅の玄関脇に出る道が紹介されていたが、実際に行ってみると草木が生い茂ってとても通れる状態ではなかたので引き返す。
道が下り坂になるのに伴い小走りになる。
「大久保(御代田)一里塚」はそれらしき物体を走りながらカメラに収め、それ以後はダッシュで御代田駅に駆け込んだ。

天気が良ければ今日一日右に浅間山を見ながら歩けたはずなのに、今日はあいにくの曇り空で全く見えなかった。
天気だけは選べない。

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