中山道<第31日>妻籠~馬籠2010年09月19日

馬籠峠越えの石畳
妻籠宿僕らの中山道の旅はついに東海道新幹線を使って名古屋回りでのアクセスとなった。
6:16AM東京発ののぞみに乗り込み、名古屋で8:17AMのナイスホリデー木曽路という休日のみ運行の快速に乗り換えれば南木曽に9:51AMに到着。
そこで10:10AMのバスに乗れば何と10:17AMに妻籠に到着だ。
5月にスーパーあずさと普通列車を乗り継いで、塩尻回りで木曽路に通っていた時は昼頃にスタート地点に着いてたことを思うと、やはり新幹線という乗り物の凄さを実感する。

妻籠宿脇本陣さて3連休の中日ということもあって今日も妻籠は観光客でごった返している。
そんな中、平成7年再建の本陣(島崎藤村の母親の実家でもある)と、明治13年築の脇本陣を見学。
どちらも囲炉裏に火を炊いて建物を内部から燻しているのが印象的だった。
その煤を硬く絞った雑巾で拭き取ることを永年続けることで黒光りする艶が生まれるのだ。
脇本陣のガイドから聞いて知った。

妻籠宿本陣隣の公衆トイレで娘のオムツを替えた後、宿場内の商店でパンを買い、無料休憩所で昼食。
そして3ヶ月振りに娘をベビーキャリー、macpacポッサムに乗せて背負う。
この3ヶ月で体重は10kgを越えただけあって肩にズシリとのしかかる。
今日はこれで馬籠峠を越えるのだ。
まずは妻籠宿観光案内所で「完歩証明書」という物をもらう。
妻籠宿のスタンプが押してあるこの証明書を次の馬籠宿の観光案内所に持って行って、そこで馬籠宿のスタンプを押せば妻籠・馬籠間を完歩した証明になるらしい。
この証明書は紙のように薄くすいた木(多分檜)でできている。

大妻籠12:55PM、地域住民不断の努力の結晶である美しい宿場を出る。
道は細かなアップダウンを繰り返し、大妻籠に至る。
見事な卯建の上がる民宿などが建ち並ぶ風情ある小集落だ。
この辺りでは馬籠方面から歩いて来た人達とひっきりなしにすれ違う。
西洋人も多い。

馬籠峠への道大妻籠を出て県道を横切ると本格的な峠越えの道が始まる。
ハイカーのために整備された石畳の道がジグザグに坂を登ってゆく。
途中田園の脇を通る僕好みの土道もある。
勾配は大したことないのだが、成長した娘の重みがかなりこたえる。
特に膝と同じくらいの高さの段差を登る時、膝の上の部分に大きな負担がかかり、何度も繰り返すうちにそこの筋肉が今にも痙攣しそうな感じになって来た。

一石栃立場茶屋跡かつて7軒ほどの茶屋が軒を並べていた一石栃立場茶屋跡を通りかかった時、そこに1軒だけ残る休憩所のおじさんが「休んでいかねェか」と声をかけてくれたので、お言葉に甘え、お茶と飴をご馳走になった。
おじさんによれば峠まであと15分。

馬籠峠名所の男滝女滝までちょっとの回り道をする余裕もなく、こまめに休んで膝の上の筋肉を伸ばしながら石畳を登り、再び県道と交差したところが馬籠峠だ。
峠の茶屋のベンチで一休み。
ここは長野と岐阜の県境でもある。
2007年7月7日に小雨の碓氷峠を越えて以来ずっと歩いて来た長野県ともこれでお別れだ。
長野に入った時は2人だったのに、出る時は3人になっている。
人生の不思議。

長野県は終わっても木曽路は今しばらく続く。

峠集落 岐阜県に入るとすぐに県道をそれて旧道の下り坂に入る。
こちらは石畳ではなく桜が散ったような図柄で舗装してある。
ほどなくかつて間の宿であった峠集落に着く。
急坂に沿って旧い民家が軒を連ねる。
ここはかつて貨物を運搬する“牛方”が多く住んでいたのだが、安政3年に中津川の問屋との間で運賃配分に関する争いがあったことは藤村の『夜明け前』でも、変革の息吹の象徴として詳しく描かれている。

この頃から前方の視界が開け始め、時折美濃方面の平野も見えてくる。

陣場 馬籠まであとわずかというところで、もうないだろうと思っていた登り坂に差し掛かる。
限界に近い足を引きずりながら登りきると一気に視界が開け、そのまま宿場の入口に当たる陣場に着く。
昔徳川方の武将が陣を布いたことからその名が付いたそうだが、今ではちょっとした展望台になっており、恵那山、美濃平野が一望できる。
これまでの木曽路ではまずおがめなかった眺めである。

馬籠宿4:30PM、馬籠宿に入る。
ここも妻籠に負けず劣らず観光客で溢れている。
とりあえず観光案内所で完歩証明のスタンプを押してもらい、今夜の宿、馬籠茶屋にチェックインする。
夕食までの時間を利用して宿場の裏山にある永昌寺へ。
ここは『夜明け前』に万福寺の名で登場する。
物語の最終盤で精神に異常を来たした主人公青山半蔵が火をかけようとするのがこの寺だ。
しかし境内にそのことに関する説明の類は一切ない。
ただ半蔵のモデル島崎正樹(藤村の父)と藤村の墓への案内があるのみであった。

夕暮れの馬籠宿を散歩して馬籠茶屋へ。

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